Antique Renaissance Embroidered Early Needlework Lace with Snails Insects Birds: Late C16th early 17th century, Italy

An extraordinary survivor, this very rare whitework botanical patchwork design layout stems from a 16th-century Italian Renaissance technique called Modano or Lacis.

Dating from the late 16th - early 17th century, this is an exceptional museum-grade piece. The floral iconography during the Renaissance was heavily influenced by early woodcut herbal books and pattern books (such as those by Giovanni Ostaus or Federico Vinciolo), featuring stiff, highly stylized botanical specimens.

The panel features alternating squares of embroidered linen with hand knotted filet lace. The embroidery showcases various floral patterns along with birds, snails, insects and butterflies, typical of this era of Italian textiles. The piece was made by a skilled embroiderer, and textiles of this quality are often described as a lost art.

The central band consists of an undulating, continuous vine with scrolling tendrils and highly stylised leaves, which is characteristic of the late renaissance taste for scrolling flora. The vine stems are thick and heavily textured , likely executed in chain stitch, braid stitch or heavy stem stitch while the leaves are filled with delicate geometric patterns, pulled thread work, and satin stitch fillings.

The fine handwoven 16th-century linen ground has uneven slubs (natural thick and thin spots) from hand-spinning, with an uneven ecru hue.
Such panels were commonly used to adorn domestic furnishings, like the edges of valances and pillows, and ceremonial cloths. It has a total of 39 embroidered panels plus the embroidered borders.

Measurements:
187cm x 60cm

Condition:
In excellent antique condition with an overall uneven ecru/ slight yellowing due to antiquity and age. This could be improved upon or possibly removed by a specialist textile conservator. The top edge has been cut at some point in its history and is raw.